Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Jaguar Fuel Pump

Jaguar starting problems,fuel pump not running,replacing fuel pump,fuel ump relay testing
Jaguar Fuel pump relay location,and fuel pump location and problems troubleshooting.

Let it be 1983 jaguar xj6 or 2000 year jaguar xj6 the starting issues and fuel pump issues are provided with solved solutions.Also details are provided with proper garage repair experience.Just go through these complete chapter and you will learn lot about these types of problem troubleshooting.


1983 jaguar xj6 Fuel pump
Basically on XJ's FUEL PUMP SETS DOWN INSIDE THE CENTER OF THE BIG FUEL TANK.FUEL TANK HAS TO DROPPED DOWN TO REMOVE FUEL PUMP.


BUT for these older model xj6 model ...............
You have To remove RIGHT SIDE WHEEL ASSEMBLY.Cut straps securing the FUEL PUMP Feed Hoses To Axle Carrier fit a clamps to the fuel feed hose.Then remove the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel feed hose. Plug the hose. Then loosen union NUT at fuel pump re-position hose plug the hose. Remove the fuel pump to axle carrier mounting nuts . Then remove FUEL PUMP ELECTRICAL HARNESS FROM the Fuel Pump. And remove the fuel pump assembly.
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1988 jaguar xj6 4.0L v6. 
engine cranks  has spark but will not start
Try spraying starting fluid on throttle body and see if starts and runs.If yes the problem is fuel pump,has to be replaced.Get the fuel pressure checked .Also inspect condition of fuel filter.Its is very dirty and not replaced before then replace it.

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1989 jaguar xj6 fuel pump

 For Fuel filter and Fuel pump:
On a 1989 Jaguar xj6 the fuel pump is located between the fuel tank and filter under the car. Its right above rear-end.

89 xj6 jaguar Fuel pump location more details

Its in the boot(called trunk in US model) lift out the ply cover on the spare wheel, and the wheel, between the wheel and the rear is a ply and steel filler panel, held in by screws, unscrew these and the pump will be seen under there. And for fuel pump relay its located under passenger's dash panel on yellow connector block.

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1993 /1996 XJ6 Jaguar 
FUEL PUMP RELAY:
The Fuel pump relay for 1993 and 1994 XJ6 Jaguar is located in the trunk of the vehicle on the right hand rear side. It is light blue and black in color.

To access the relay you need to remove the cover behind the battery .
fuel pump relay number is ( K27 ).

FUEL PUMP:
For Fuel pump location on Jaguar XJ40 fuel tank is located behind rear seat .Its located under the car near rear end, fuel pump is inside the fuel tank
On  older model xj 40 fuel pumps are under car near drivers rear door later ones pump in tank.

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PROBLEMS NOTICED LIKE

1989 Jaguar xj6 cutting off

The problem can be with fuel pump or fuel filter.Fuel pump is bad or plugged fuel filter. 
For confirming try these........... crack the line from the filter leading towards the engine first. If gas starts squirting out fast, you know there is a good pressue. If not the filter is plugged or a bad pump. 
How old is the fuel filter ? If original its plugged up by now and needs replacing.
If both fuel filter and fuel pump checked ok,then issue is with faulty CPS that means Crank position sensor.

In one of such same case our auto repair garage the problem was faulty crank sensor.
The vehicle was running fine,then it use quit running.The customer got fuel pump,fuel pressure regulator,fuel filter and fuel pump relay replaced.But still the issue was same.
Then his vehicle was at our Auto garage for inspection.I see issues with the crank sensor causing intermittent stall then no start on vehicle.
We tested his vehicle at our garage and Next time the problem occurs we tried spraying some carb cleaner into the air intake to see if it will run on the spray. The vehicle ran on carb cleaner without any problem and  this is an indication of a fuel delivery problem and we  checked the electrical circuit.The relay and the wiring all checked good.We also check for injector pulse and ignition and all tested good.And we replaced the  faulty crank sensor.The problem was not noticed after that.The customer reported everything fine after one week testing.

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 2002 Jaguar S-Type 4.0 Cold start problem

On this old model vehicle before 2005 year models there is a cold start valve or it has coolant temp sensor.
For cold start problem  replace the colant temp sensor which is usualy located on the thermostat housing or on the intake manifold and this will sove the clod start problem.

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1984 jaguar xj6 keeps flooding and  fuel pump is running


On this case many a times the problem is MAF sensor( Mass Air Flow).
Why MAF sensor causes these problem because Water gets into it and steeles in it and makes the engine runs rough on some cases.
Try disconnecting the MAF sensor then run the engine and see if still flooding is noticed.It will get solved.If yes then issue is faulty MAF.Replace it with new MAF sensor.
On some cases you even notice that engine consuming too much fuel,these is due to faulty injectors.Of it has vacuum leak or air screw in the meter is out and needs to be adjusted.Get the fuel injectors tested if injectors are good and others possibilities checked good then its problem with coolant temperature sensor.

1992 Jaguar XJ6 while driving the engine just dies 
for a second or two while driving at speed. All gauges fall to zero and then the engine starts again and all is back to normal.These is intermittent problem,not noticed always.

At our Auto repair garage we have noticed that on some cars that have a short loom from the top of the fuel tank to the right side of the car over heat at the connector near the side of the boot.And that causes the problem.
Also Check the wires from the fuel pump. Also garage technicians while repairing such problem on older model jaguar have noticed issues with  MAF ( Mass Air Flow) that are hard to identify. It could be an issue with the O2 sensor but it would not cause a complete stall. The other item to have tested is the ignition module near the coil.

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1992 Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign fuel needs replacing again n again


The problem was low fuel pump pressure and fuel pump was very old,replaced it but after couple of month same problem occurred and fuel pump needs to be replaced.These time replaced fuel pump with original factory fuel pump and parts.But same issue again started the fuel pump got worn out in next 3 months.
The problem was very frustrating.All the 3 times the problem was fuel pump and something was burning it.So we even replace fuel pump relay and rewired the fuel pump and replaced fuel pump 4th time and again after 2 months the fuel pump was burned and problem was same as before.
Thanks to the tech who helped us to solve this very confusing problem.He told us to get the fuel tank cleaned and inside it was thoroughly rusted.Also he told to clean the sock,which was clogged.After getting these done,the 5th fuel pump which was Bosch fuel pump is working for last six years and even good.
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1994 Jaguar XJ6 runs fine then engine warms up, then Oil pressure drops then vehicle stalls and stumbles ......


This problem is noticed many a times.Either a faulty oil pressure sensor or its faulty oil pump.
There is a engine computer module in the vehicle.The oil pressure required to run the engine is monitored by the computer.if the pil pressure drops a bit the computer module will not receive correct signal and it will stop giving further signal to the engine to run.
Many vehicles have the feature, that when oil pressure drops off, or is reported dropping off to the computer, it will limit engine performance or not even allow it to start at times. The computer has circuitry built in it to shut off fuel to save the engine from destroying itself. So  a oil pressure bad sensor or very low oil pressure can cause this. it would be a good idea to check oil pressure while warmed up too.If the oil pressure is checked ok,then getting the oil pressure sensor replaced will help.

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1986 XJ6 4.2 LITER straight 6 cylinder turns over but no spark from plugs

In this case first test the battery and its oltage.Check battery terminals.If dirty clean them.If loose then reconnect th terminals properly.
If battery checked ok then it can be issue with ignition coil.To confirm the problem,bit of simple testing is required.
  • Check for power on the White wire at the ignition coil positive side.
  • Check for a trigger signal on the White/Black wire on the negative side of the coil. This signal comes from the amplifier. If power and signal are present, replace the coil. If no signal proceed further. 
NEXT STEP
  • Check for power on the White wire at the ignition amplifier. 
  • Disconnect the distributor pick up leads from the amplifier and measure the resistance of the pick up coil, should be 2.2K-4.8K ohms.
  • Check the rotor for pinholes by holding coil wire just above distributor rotor while someone cranks engine, no spark should be present. 
If spark is present then the rotor is faulty and allowing spark to travel through to the distributor shaft. 
This is a common problem.And replacing the rotor will help.

===========================
1994 Jaguar XJ6 vcm says fuel sytem 37 failure

The vcm says fuel system 37 failure. The car wont start, but does turn over.

Check the EGR valve.If the EGR is stuck fully open the vehicle should start. If it is not stuck then we need to go in another direction . 
Other possibilities can be clogged tube or faulty EGR temp sensor.Try starting it with carb cleaner on throttle body. Since it does run on carb cleaner then we most likely have a fuel delivery problem like a failed in tank fuel pump. We would need to install a gauge to the injector rail. Special tools are needed to do this so you can remove the fuel supply line and place it is a glass bottle. Crank the engine to see if you have good fuel flow.If not the fuel pump needs replacement.

Please note: When you turn the key to on position  the fuel pump will run for about two seconds.You will properly hear that noise.The fuel pump tuns on and supplies fuel flow and then you start the vehicle.The pump will continue to run if you turn the key to the crank position. 

To determine if it's the fuel system you will need to test the fuel pressure gauge between the feed line and fuel rail. This is not easily done so you can also spray some carb cleaner into the air intake tube to see if the engine will run. If it does run then it's a fuel problem like a faulty pump. If it still does not run then you may not have good spark from a faulty crank sensor.
========================

1990 Jaguar xj6 starts for few seconds then quits and won't restart

All it does is crank without an increase in engine speed.

At out Auto repair garage we have  seen issues with the crank sensor and the main relay causing this types of issue. 
At the point when the engine will not start you need to check for fuel pressure, injector pulse, and spark. Special tools are needed in order to do this but I will provide you some quick DIY tips.As per our auto garage experience.
Simple procedure:  To check for spark remove a wire off the cap or spark plug. Crank the engine while you look and listen for a good spark. In order to check for fuel tools are needed but get a can of throttle or carb cleaner and spray it into the air intake tube near the throttle to see if the engine will start and run on the spray. I suggest you to perform these simple basic tests before replacing any components.Confirming the fault before replacing parts always helps.

Also on some cases it was the issue with injectors not getting operated correctly.
need a noid light to check to make sure the ECU is energizing the injectors. At our garage we have also seen issues with water or corrosion on the ECU connections. To access ECU the ECU is located in the passenger front kick panel.

Use the pressure gauge in the supply line at the rail. This checks the fuel pump output. Then a noid light is needed to check and see if the ECU is firing the injectors.

If the fuel pressure is checked low,then before replacing fuel pump check the voltage to fuel pump wiring.
Check for battery voltage on pin 2 blue/red wire on the three cavity black connector in the left rear seat pan area on the fuel pump harness.
On some models there is 2 connector plug instead on three cavity connector.The black connector on car only has two wires, a light blue and a black wire. Disconnect the connector and check for voltage.
If the voltage is not proper then fuel pump needs replacing.
On some cases with same problem the issue was fuel pump relay,which is located to the passenger side dash.But if replay is checked ok or the relay is already replaced and problem not solved then test the power supply to the relay points.
ON relay Pin 30 brown wire and pin 86 white/brown wire of the relay socket should have battery voltage. Pin 85 pink/brown wire comes from the ECU and should be a ground energizing the relay. Pin 87 blue/red is the power going to the pump.

To bypass the fuel pump relay Jump pins 30 and 87 to see if the pump runs.
If the pump runs then relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
=========================

LET ME SHARE YOU WITH ONE OF OUR GARAGE REPAIR EXPERIENCE

Vehicle was 1990 Jaguar XJ6.
The problem was fuel pump not running.So we bypassed the fuel pump relay, the relay pins 30 and 87 and the fuel pump started running.But the pump will not stop running.Even when shifting into drive and moving the car the pump will not stop running.We replaced the fuel pump relay but still the problem was same.
We tested the fuel pump relay points ...........
Pin 85 is the ground from the ECU so if you check for voltage you will read 0 volts. If you place the black lead of your meter to pin 85 and the positive lead to the battery or power source you should read battery voltage when cranking. We need to make sure we have battery voltage on pin 86.
The voltages were correct so we thought the issue is with main relay or its wiring.
Lets go back to the main relay. Pin 30 brown wire should have battery voltage at all times, Pin 85 black wire is ground, Pin 86 white/pink should have power with the ignition ON and Pin 87 white/brown has power with the ignition ON.

The voltages were correct,but when bypassed the fuel pump relay the fuel pump runs non-stop.Also there was non stop 12 volts even with ignition off and these was confusing.
At last we reached near the issue.
These was the problem:---

We removed the  ECU  out of its harness.To take voltage measurements without it.At that time we  noticed a burning smell.It was a plastic burning smell. So we  opened up the ECU case and we  noticed some components on the low power circuit board were frayed. 
We were able to find the shorted wires in the passenger footwell area. 
NOW WE UNDERSTOOD WHY FUEL PUMP WAS RUNNING NON_STOP

These was because the wire connected to the 30 pin on the fuel pump relay terminal was shorting out with the 85 and 86 pins on the fuel pump relay terminal.And this was the reason for the 12 volt readings at pin 85 and pin 86 on the fuel pump relay terminal with the ignition off. 
And due to these reason we got  12 volts at pin 87  also of the main relay terminal with the ignition off, which was fed by the wire coming out of pin 86 of the fuel pump relay terminal. 

We  fixed these shorts and installed the new ECU. After that the car started fine. 
We tested the car for one full day.It ran fine.

THE REASON FOR WHY THESE PROBLEM OCCURRED.

We told these issue to the owner of the car and he said that day before the problem started he was driving the car and it was running fine with fuel pump running non-stop.So these confirms that why these components and wires got shorted.
The old fuel pump, was running almost continuously, heating up the wires so that they fused together and shorted out. Pin 85 of the fuel pump relay terminal then had 12 volts going to the computer, where normailly it should have been a open wire grounded by the computer.This caused the components to fry.


AFTERMARKET PARTS PROBLEM

First of all i will say,aftermarket parts are not bad parts at all.But sometimes they are not up-to the mark parts.The performance which the engine requires is not provided by aftermarket parts.

OUR Auto garage repair experience.

One of our regular known customer noticed problem on his Jaguar XJ6 vehicle.It was a starting issue.He came to our garage and we suggested him to get the fuel pump replaced.But he insisted that he will do the replacing of fuel pump himself.After few days he came back to our garage again,and told fuel pump is already replaced bu problem is still the same.
Garage tech told him that fuel pump is new agreed but the fuel pressure is low.After getting the new original fuel pump replaced the problem gt solved.
So on that basis we say,that aftermarket parts are not bad parts.But they don't last long.The part works but don't give accurate performance.So getting the same part replaced twice cost the customer more.

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FUEL PUMP RELAY TESTING:

Fuel pump not running.This can be caused by faulty fuel pump rely.To confirm this fuel pump relay needs to be bypassed.
The procedure is very simple.
On fuel pump relay connect the terminals 30 to 87 together then crank the engine you should hear the fuel pump run.If no then problem is not the relay,then check the power to the fuel pump with a multi-meter you should get 12 volt when trying to start also check for broken wiring to pump.

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1995 Jaguar XJ6 Fuel Pump and Tank removal Procedure:---


Please note To replace the fuel pump the fuel tank needs to removed. 
Here's the procedure to remove and the install the tank and replace the pump.

Please be alert while doing these repair/replace.
WARNING: WORKING ON THE FUEL SYSTEM RESULTS IN FUEL AND FUEL VAPOR BEING PRESENT IN THE ATMOSPHERE. FUEL VAPOR IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE, TAKE CARE  WHILE WORKING ON THE FUEL SYSTEM. 


IMPORTANT NOTE:
After reconnecting the battery reset the radio with the radio code and reset the clock. Transfer the fuel, drained from the displaced fuel tank to the new tank in the vehicle.

The procedure starts here.
  1. First of all Depressurize fuel system
  2. The radio code is mentioned in owners manual.Ensure that the radio code is available for resetting the radio after the battery is reconnected.
  3. Remove battery/fuse cover and disconnect the battery.
  4. The Fuel tank is located in the rear of the trunk the carpet cover has to be removed to access the fuel tank.
  5. Remove trunk floor carpet board and front liner.
  6. Remove the rear lamp assembly interior trim finisher.
  7. Remove the trunk seal retainer and left side liner.
  8. Drain fuel tank using approved equipment and observing appropriate safety precautions.The tools are easily available at local auto parts store.
  9. Raise/lower vehicle on "4 Post " ramp.Please make properly confirm that vehicle is properly raised and has 100 percent support.
  10. Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes from the fuel tank using Jaguar Service Tool JD-203.
  11. Fit plugs to the tank and to the hoses.
  12. Release the clip securing the filler aperture drain pipe and release the pipe from the clip.
  13. Lower the vehicle on the ramp.
  14. Move the in-car entertainment package from the evaporation flange area.
  15. Disconnect the vehicle harness from the evaporation loss flange.
  16. Disconnect fuel gauge tank unit feed wires.
  17. Remove the ratchet strap (see part number 1 in  Fig.1 shown below ), and the spring band clip (see part number 2 in  Fig.1 shown below), to release the filler aperture drain pipe from the fuel tank filler tube and the aperture.
  18. Remove drainpipe from the body grommet.
  19. Using Jaguar Service Tool JD-203 disconnect the under floor vapor pipe from the fuel tank.
  20. Open the flap and remove the fuel filler cap.
  21. Carefully remove the garter spring (see part number 3 in Fig.1 shown below) from the filler neck seal.
  22. Move the seal to the tank filler neck.
  23. Slacken the two retaining strap tension bolts (see part number 4 in Fig.1 shown below) at the lower brackets.
  24. Remove the bracket retaining bolts (See part number 5 in Fig.1 shown below), leaving the brackets attached to the straps.
  25. Remove the retaining clip from the left side support strut and detach the the strut from the trunk lid ball pin.
  26. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.
  27. Drain the remaining fuel and store the tank using the approved equipment and observing the appropriate safety precautions.
The fuel tank is out now.
Refit in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

Now once the fuel tank is out,you need to remove fuel pump out.


  1. Remove fuel tank from vehicle, 
  2. Remove evaporation loss flange,
  3. Slacken fuel pump feed hose to fuel tank securing clip.
  4. Disconnect hose from fuel tank stub pipe.
  5. Undo and remove fuel pump mounting brackets to surge pot securing bolts.
  6. Displace and remove fuel pumps and feed hose assembly from fuel tank.
  7. Slacken feed hose assembly to fuel pump securing clips.
  8. Remove fuel pumps from the feed hose assembly.
  9. Remove link leads from fuel pumps.
  10. Cut and remove ratchet straps securing upper clamp rubbers to to the fuel pumps.
  11. Displace and remove upper clamp rubbers from the fuel pump mounting brackets and discard.
  12. Remove the mounting brackets from the fuel pumps.
  13. Remove and discard lower mounting rubbers from the fuel pumps.
  14. Remove fuel pump and filter assemblies and place aside.
  15. Refit in the reverse order of the removal procedure.
For your help the diagram is as follows:----


jaguar fuel pump

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1992 Jaguar XJ6 Fuel Pump Module:---

You will need to disassemble the pump module to exchange the pump portion. 

This is how the fuel pump module looks.
jaguar fuel pump module

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1997 Jaguar XJ6 X300 LH drive inertia switch



The inertia switch is located under the passenger front dash by the kick panel.Make sure it has not tripped. To confirm that just depress the top of it to reset it. If it's tripped you should hear and feel a click when pressing it.

1997 Jaguar XJ6 X300 LH drive has problems like 
No crank,no interior lighting.........

It can be the problem with fuses or relays.Start checking it.

Additional info 
The fuses in the left hand engine bay box are for the horns which will not show power unless the horn switch is depressed. The fan will turn on slow speeds with the ignition ON so that is normal.
The horn relay located in the left front fuse box .The auxiliary positive relay in the trunk fuse box.
If instrument cluster in inoperative then replace auxiliary fuse with another working fuse and see if all starts working again.

The trunk fuses are all powered by that accessory relay which should be there. 
This accessory relay supplies power to the instrument cluster, air bag module, accessory relay and radio. Most likely all of these should not be working. You can swap out a relay and install it there to see what starts to work.

If all fuses and relays checked ok then,
try to move the gear shifter out of park with the ignition ON and foot on the brake. If it does not then we could just simply have a problem with the body processor module so we will need to perform some tests at the module connectors with your voltmeter.

The Body Processor Module. It is located under the passenger side dash behind the glove box.
You need voltmeter to test the BCM.On your meter Set you meter to DC volts.
Now with that place the black lead of your meter to pin 6 that is black wire and the red positive lead of your meter to pin 1 that is brown/black of the 6 way black connector. 
On your meter you should read battery voltage (12 volts). 
Now dont move position of red lead.Leave the red lead of your meter alone and move the black lead to pin 5 black wire and you should also read 12 volts. Leave the red lead alone and move the black lead to pin 7 light green/blue wire on the 48 way black. Have an assistant turn the key to the crank position and you also should read 12 volts. Leave the red lead alone and move the black lead to pin 20 red/blue on that same connector and again you should read battery voltage when cranking. Next leave your red lead alone and move the black lead to pin 41 red/white on that connector. Turn to the crank position and you should again read battery voltage. 
 Also when doing this we need to leave all the connectors plugged into the module.Dont unplug the connector out of module,otherwise you get no voltage or incorrect voltage.
If all connectors and wires are intact and not damaged.If the voltage differs then problem is with BCM.
The issue was noticed with BPM ( also called as BCM on latest car models.
BPM means body processor module.
BCM means body control module.
Both are one and same.

See how the BPM looks.
jaguar xj6 BCM

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Jaguar XJ6 Fuel pump wiring diagram

Actually there are 4 wires inside the connector to the fuel pump. But the Diagram shown below only concentrates on two wires.The fuel sending unit for the other two wires, the tank has a fuel sending unit mounted in another area supplied by its own harness.
The Fuel sender has its own set of wires. What is in the diagram is only what runs the fuel pump itself.

jaguar fuel pump wiring

If the vehicle is supercharged then you will have two fuel pumps. On that engine models the fuel pump connectors have four wires. If it's normally aspirated then the red/yellow is the power and the black is ground. Remove the relay and check to see if you have power at the 30 pin and the 86 pin. The ecm will ground the 85 pin. If you jump 30 and 87 see if you have power at the red/yellow wire at the pump.

Pin 85 of the relay to the pink/brown pin 19 of the black ecm connector. The resistance should be less then 5 ohms but closer to less than 1 ohm. If the wire is open then run another external wire instead of tearing the interior apart to find the break in the wire.If it runs you know wire is the problem.

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Pre- 1983 Jaguar xj6l Schematics and wiring

No start and no fuel getting to fuel injectors problem.
The wiring needs to be followed.

The diagram covers wiring schematic of engine controls and fuel pump wiring

fuel pump wiring jaguar
======================

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Saturday, July 21, 2012

How to replace Timing chain on 1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass?

The procedure to replace timing chain

The details and diagrams are as follows:---


See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7
V8 Chevrolet Built Engines
All Chevrolet V8 engines are equipped with a timing chain.
  1. Remove the crankcase front cover. This will allow access to the timing chain.
  2. Crank the engine until the marks punched on both sprockets are closest to one another and in line between the shaft centers.
  3. Take out the three bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft. This sprocket is a light press fit on the camshaft and will come off readily. It is located by a dowel. The chain comes off with the camshaft sprocket.
  4. A gear puller will be required to remove the crankshaft sprocket.
To install:
  1. Without disturbing the position of the engine, mount the new crank sprocket on the shaft, then mount the chain over the camshaft sprocket.
  2. Arrange the camshaft sprocket in such a way that the timing marks will line up between the shaft centers; and the camshaft locating dowel will enter the dowel hole in the cam sprocket.
  3. Place the cam sprocket, with the chain mounted over it, in position on the front of the camshaft and pull up with the three bolts that hold it to the camshaft.
  4. After the sprockets are in place, turn the engine two full revolutions to make certain that the timing marks are in correct alignment between the shaft centers.
  5. Install the crankcase front cover.
V8 Oldsmobile Built Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the timing case cover and take off the camshaft gear.
The fuel pump operating cam is bolted to the front of the camshaft sprocket and the sprocket is located on the camshaft by means of a dowel.
  1. Align the timing marks on the sprockets.
  2. Remove the oil slinger, timing chain, and the camshaft sprocket. If the crankshaft sprocket is to be replaced, remove it also at this time. Remove the crankshaft key before using the puller. If the key can not be removed, align the puller so it does not overlap the end of the key, as the key-way is only machined part of the way into the crankshaft gear.

Oldsmobile timing chain
Fig. Fig. 1: Before removing the timing chain, make sure the valve timing marks are properly aligned


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and fuel eccentric


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the camshaft sprocket


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 4: Use a puller to loosen the crankshaft sprocket


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 5: Before completely removing the crankshaft sprocket, remove the crankshaft key
To install:
  1. Reinstall the crankshaft sprocket being careful to start it with the keyway in perfect alignment since it is rather difficult to correct for misalignment after the gear has been started on the shaft. Turn the timing mark on the crankshaft gear until it points directly toward the center of the camshaft. Mount the timing chain over the camshaft gear and start the camshaft gear up on to its shaft with the timing marks as close as possible to each other and in line between the shaft centers. Rotate the camshaft to align the shaft with the new gear.
  2. Install the fuel pump eccentric with the flat side toward the rear.
  3. Drive the key in with a hammer until it bottoms.
  4. Install the oil slinger.
263 Oldsmobile Built Diesel Engines
Any time the timing chain and gears are replaced on the diesel engine it will be necessary to re-time the engine. Refer to the paragraph on Diesel Engine Injection Timing.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 6: Engine front cover and timing chain assembly - 350 Oldsmobile diesel engines


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 7: Timing mark alignment - Oldsmobile built engines
  1. Remove the front cover. Remove the valve covers.
  2. Loosen all rocker arm pivot bolts evenly so that lash exists between the rocker arms and valves. It is not necessary to completely remove the rocker arms unless related service is being performed.
  3. Remove the crankshaft oil slinger and the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer.
  4. Remove the timing chain, camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. If the crankshaft sprocket is a tight fit on the crankshaft use an appropriate puller to remove it.
To install:
  1. If the camshaft sprocket-to-cam key comes out with the camshaft sprocket, remove the front camshaft bearing retainer and install the key into the injection pump drive gear. Install the bearing retainer.
  2. Install the key in the crankshaft, if removed.
  3. Install the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and the timing chain together, align the timing marks on the camshaft and the crankshaft. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 64 ft. lbs. (86 Nm)
  4. Install the oil slinger and the remaining parts of the front cover assembly.
  5. After installing the front cover, bleed down the valve lifters as instructed in Diesel Engine, Rocker Arm Replacement, above.
  6. Remaining installation is the reverse of removal. Sealant is used in place of valve cover gaskets.

These details will help.
Thanks.


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Friday, July 20, 2012

Ford Odometer Dims intermittently

Odometer displays gets dim and dark on 2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac.

The problem is not constant,it occurs occasionally then all gets normal.

IS IT A FUSE OR BULB ISSUE?


NO,not at all.I've repaired multiple sets of these, a fuse WOULD NOT cause the intermittent issues you are experiencing, and the bulb is extremely unlikely to do so.

OK,THEN WHAT CAN CAUSE THIS PROBLEM?


Its a problem with Instrument cluster board.

The "proper" repair is to have the entire instrument cluster (the unit that holds all of the gauges and odometer behind the steering wheel) replaced. The reason this particular issue happens is usually due to a faulty solder joint on the instrument cluster.

IS REPLACING THE CLUSTER BOARD ONLY OPTION OR CAN I REPAIR THE PROBLEM?

If you go to ford dealership then for quick and easy solution.They will suggest you just get instrument cluster board replaced.
But as per my experience at our auto garage.I will say,these is jut the basic start of problem.
The problem can be repaired.

If you know how to use soldering iron and solder electric points on circuit board.Then you can repair this problem easily.

See the instrument cluster board image shown below:---
The solder points which mostly go loose are shown.
ford cluster board repair




Only the odometer is affected by these solder joints
The eight solder connections in the top left of this picture are the ones that are most likely at fault, if you are comfortable with a solder gun and removing the instrument cluster, these are the solder joints that need to be repaired mostly.But if you notice any other additional solder points that seems loose then don't ignore that points. Re-solder that points too.

WHY ONLY ODOMETER IS AFFECTED AND ALL OTHER WORKS GOOD ON CLUTER BOARD?



The part of the board that has the bad solder connections gets hot and causes excessive resistance in the circuit for the L.E.D display to function constantly.The root cause of this problem is  "poor solder connections" during assembly.And its not uncommon.The solder points gets loose by age and needs re-soldering.
As per the present condition,the problem is not so worse that you need to replace the cluster board.You can get it repaired by re-soldering.


If you go to a Ford dealer, they will want you to replace the entire instrument cluster.They will not do these repair work for you.


These details will help.
Thanks.


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Volvo Seat Removal with Heated Seats?

Removing passenger seat with heated seat on 2002 Volvo S80.

Its not a easy task,on some cases it can be dangerous due to Airbag.


The front seat removal  is technically a dangerous operation due to the vehicles SRS system.
For these procedure the vehicles battery should be disconnected.Then let the vehicle sit for a long while to discharge any remaining power in the system before removal of the front seat to prevent accidental airbag deployment. The seat should also be grounded to the frame of the vehicle during the removal process.

Now the seat removal procedure.

The seat is held by 4 bolts.Very easy to remove if bolts are not rusted or got worn out.In that cases a rust remover spary like wd-40 or other rust resistant spray needs to be used.So remove the four bolts holding the seat to the floor.

The next step is to remove seat belt.So detaching the seat belt from the seat to allow removal of the seat belt.

The large trim panel blocking the seat belt needs to be removed to be able to remove the seat belt
See the diagram shown below:---
Volvo seat belt removal

For easy access the catches for the handle above need to be released with a small screw driver, then the handle can be pulled off "upwards".


And remove the large trim panel.Once that is done.Then pull the front edge of the panel upwards first, and then the entire panel toward the rear of the car to remove it
See the help diagram shown below:---
seat removal diagram

Once this step is done,now you get complete access .This will expose the seat belt bracket itself for removal

See the help diagram shown below:---
volvo seat belt



These procedure will let you get the seat out.
Now if you need to change the seat cover the headrest or lumbar support knob should come off.
For that,Spin the knob counter-clockwise until it stops.Continue screwing counter-clockwise and pull out hard.

NOTE: While re-installing the knob you will have to press the knob "in" first and then screw it clockwise to tighten it back on.

These details will help.
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Thursday, July 5, 2012

FORD IGNITION MODULE

Location of Ignition module on Ford Vehicles.

FOR 1995 f150 5.0:

If the  distributor use the TFI module? If so look for a thin (1/2 inch) 4 inch long, inch and a half tall thingy with a plug in the 5 oclockish position.
The module is gray in color and distributor has to be out to replace the Ignition module.

============
1990/2002 Ford
The owners manual says Ignition module to be mounted to the rear of the left hood hinge on the left fender inner apron.
It costs for about $170.
Aftermarket Ignition module costs about $ 90.
================================

The TFI module is mounted in a heatsink on the fender on all F150s after year 1991. If yours is faulty the only part worth replacing this with is a another Ford part, none of the aftermarket modules last.After market parts are not performance wise.They are cheap but dont last long.


=======================

1995 Ford  F-150 4.9L

The ignition module is attached to the driver side sheet metal, in a heat sink bracket with aluminum cooling fins, just below where the hood hinge attaches to the sheet metal. It's held on by two hex head screws.
=======================

1993 Ford Festiva 4 cylinder

The ignition module is located by your coil. This unit has the switching transistor in it.

See location for the ignition module:
ford ignition module image


Procedure to test ignition coil :---
If the electrical connectors of Ignition coil are wet,then first dry them.Clean them with soft cloth.Then using a test light,check for power at the positive side of the coil,with the key on.
If this is ok,back probe the negative side of the coil with the test light and have someone else crank the engine. Watch the test light,it should flash or at least flicker on and off. If not,the switching transistor in the module may be blown.If it does,it may be a bad coil.

NOW, if the test light plugged in on the negative side of the coil is not flickering (flashing) when you crank it,the transistor could be open.
Crank the engine and watch your check engine light on the dash.Key on,the light should be on.During cranking,it should go off. This is a quick check of the crank sensor.
If the light stays on,you will need to replace it.
The Crank sensor is located in the distributor.Also,if the crank sensor is bad,it will not allow the transistor in the ignition module to open and close.


===================
Ford 97 F350

Symptoms of faulty ignition module:

Car will not start.Or it will start but not completely turn over and run.Or no spark problem.

The ignition control modules are common for failure in such cases.There are also other possibilities like faulty distributor or issue with ignition coil or faulty crank sensor.

On 1997 F350 the Ignition Control Module is located at the LH rear of engine compartment, on fender apron...most parts stores can test them...

see the diagram shown below for its location:---

ignition module diagram

On some cases its seen/noticed that When ignition module gets weak.At that time it stops when it gets warm or engine gets warm and starts working when everything gets cool.In that case also ignition module has to be replaced.These is the start indication that ignition module is about to fail.

====================

1987 ford ranger

Replace ignition coil but still no spark,its faulty ignition module.


The usual suspect on your 2.9 for a loss of spark is caused by a failed Ignition module and not the coil, when replacing the module (mounted on the distributor) its also a good idea to replace the stator inside the distributor at the same time. The distributor has to be remove to replace the stator.
Ignition module is pointed with red arrow:---
See the help diagram shown below:----

distributor & stator assembly


To remove the screws you will need a 5.5 thin wall metric socket , they also sell a special tool for it for about $8.00 .Start with the Ignition module and if its still has a problem, replace the stator.
======================

1990 ford e350

The ignition module Location diagram is shown below:---

ignition module diagram

========================

1996 Ford f-150

Vehicle cranks,misfires and stalls

Check power to ignition coil.It should have power.
If no power then there is a problem.
But if it has power then check the ground signal,here is the procedure to see if its getting a ground signal trigger.
You will need a  test light.Its easily available at local auto part sore or electrical parts store.Hook it up backwards. Hook the alligator clip of the test light and hook it to battery positive, and take the tip of the test light and touch it the signal wire of the coil. The test light should blink when cranking over the engine if its getting a signal. If you use a conventional test light, it will flicker very very dim (so look closely) if the coil is getting a signal to fire the spark.

If the ignition coil is getting battery voltage and a ground signal trigger to fire the spark and is not firing any spark out while cranking the engine over, the ignition coil is bad and will need to be replaced.

If the ignition coil is not getting a ground signal trigger to fire the spark, then either the PCM or the ignition module is going to be at fault. Just be sure to check the inputs before replacing either of them.

see the wiring diagram shown below:---

ford wiring diagram


If all checked ok,then it can be problem with crank sensor itself.
You could have a bad cam or crank sensor. To check them all you have to do is turn the key on and crank. The check engine light should normally come on when the key is turned to the on position, then go off when cranking. The computer turns off the check engine light when it recognizes the crank signal. So if there is a bad crank sensor, the computer will never turn off the check engine light when cranking! If thats the case its time to replace the sensor! Just be sure the wiring is in good shape.If the wires are loose or dirty,then try cleaning the connections and refit it properly and see all works good or not.


Also on this year vehicle, the crank sensor is only used to detect misfires. Engine only needs the signal in the distributor to start and run. If the signal is not getting to engine the crank issues will be noticed.

You can verify this by disconnecting the crank sensor and checking to see if the engine fires up or not.

=======================
1992 Ford Escort
Has power to coil but no Spark at spark plugs

It can be faulty crank sensor or issue with ignition module or a loose timing belt,or timing belt out of alignment or broken timing belt.

In this cases first try common test procedure.This test is signal test.
Does the check engine light come on when the key is turned to on and go out when cranking?

If the check engine light comes on and goes out that means  engine rpm signal is coming there to tell the module to fire the coil.But may be module is not doing its job.The ignition module needs testing.

UNDERSTAND THE IGNITION MODULE WORKING THEORY:--
what is there is ignition module?
The Electronic Distributorless Ignition System (EDIS) , consists of a
  • Variable Reluctance Sensor (VRS) , 
  • an EDIS Module, 
  • an EEC IV processor and one 4-tower Coil Pack. 
WORKING /OPERATION OF THIS SYSTEM:
This system operates by sending crankshaft position information from the VRS to the EDIS module. 
  • The module generates a PIP signal and sends it to the EEC IV processor. 
  • The processor responds with a Spark Angle Word (SAW) signal containing advance or retard timing information back to the EDIS module.
  •  The module processes VRS and SAW signals and decides which coils to fire. 
  • In addition, the module generates an Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal to processor which is used to indicate a failure mode and also provide a tach output signal.
See the help diagram shown below:---

ford IGM distributor diagram

ON ford Escort Dual Cam 1.8L engine  the crankshaft position sensor is inside the distributor itself and as long as the check engine light goes out then the engine control module is receiving an engine rpm signal which should have the ECM tell the Ignition module to fire the coil.


On dual cam 1.8L Ignition module is Located under the coil on its mounting bracket:
See the help diagram shown below:----


ford escort IGM

==================================

1995 Ford Mustang

Ignition module replacing procedure and Location diagram


Ignition Control Module

Procedure to remove
  1. Disconnect engine control sensor wiring connector from ignition control module (ICM) (12A297 see diagram below) .
  2. Remove screws retaining heatsink/ ignition control module to front fender apron (16055) .
  3. Remove two screws retaining ignition control module to heatsink and remove ignition control module .

Procedure to Install
  1. Coat metal baseplate of ignition control module uniformly with silicone compound, approximately 0.79 mm (1/32 inch) thick. 
  2. Use Silicone Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A.Its easily available at parts stores.
  3. Once this is done .Now position ignition control module onto heatsink and tighten two retaining screws to 1.7-4.0 Nm (15-35 lb-in).
  4. After that Install ignition control module /heatsink to RH front fender apron . Tighten retaining screws to 10.2-13.8 Nm (90-120 lb-in).
  5. Connect engine control sensor wiring (12A581) to the ignition control module.
  6. Test its working to confirm that installation is done right.
  7. In some rare cases new parts too comes faulty.So check the part quality before installation.But branded parts,that has minor chances of coming faulty,then local Aftermarket parts.
See the help diagram shown below:----

ignition module ford

==============================-==============

1995 Ford Bronco 302 Engine
No spark issues
First test and  find out if it has spark or not. When it acts up and quits, pull the coil wire off the coil (big center one). Crank the engine over, if there is a good spark there consistent, then the ignition system works.
To test Remove the coil wire from the coil. This is the wire that goes from the coil to the center of the dist.
If the spark test good then its timing issue or fuel issue.
Also make sure that the rotor under the dist cap is turning consistently. If it stops and then turns, then the dist gear could be worn away and will need to be replaced. So lets make sure the dist rotor is turning.On some cases this issue was also noticed.
In such cases most likely part that fails is the TFI ignition module either located on the side of the dist or remotely located on the fender inner. Looks similar to below.

See the image of Ignition module
ignition module part

This details will help.
Thanks.

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